Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Heart's Delight: Restaurant Review of Chougle's Manisha Mess


I had heard a lot about home-like ghar-guti messes in Belgaum that serve spicy Non-Veg dishes. “Laivit astat, be.” My friends have been telling me from a long time, “LaiiBhaari.”
I was a little skeptical about visiting these so-called less-than-standard places, but the foodie in me got the better of me and I went ahead with an open mind and an empty stomach to check out the messes.

I visited a few. But what really requires a praise, first-off, is Chougle's Manisha Mess.

Chougle's Manisha Mess is tucked deep inside Goodshed Road area, about 100 mts from Nartaki Talkies. Situated on the top second-floor, the pent-house-converted mess serves marathi mutton preparation only.

Yes! it is a mess, and is in a chawl-like structure. Even the interiors are very humble: red cement floor; tin roof supported by non-painted thin wood beams; no running water in the basin, instead there is a bucket-tumbler arrangement; simple tables and benches – that's right: benches and not chairs from the sitting furniture. The whole dining area is not more than 250 sq. ft. But the place is kept clean and tidy. The cutlery and crockery are basic: steel plate, spoon and chota plate. And just like the cutlery and the restaurant area, the menu is also limited, and so is the staff – just two waiting staff and 2-3 kitchen staff. But don't let its appearance fool you, because in true global terms it is a signature restaurant – meaning, the owners themselves are involved with the day-to-day operations of the hotel. And this is why this hidden gem boasts of its sparkle.
It is a mutton lovers delight.

The mess is open only for Lunch and Dinner; Six days a week, Monday being closed.

As you climb up four flights of stairs, an engulfing aroma of rustic spices not just greet you, but, knock you off your balance. In a way it's okay to go off-balance a little for very rarely you will not have to wait. Because of the limited sitting capacity the mess is always full, with a minimum waiting time of fifteen minutes. If you are going in a group of four, be prepared for the group-split and its members eat alone. But that seems too small a price when compared to the hot, spicy per-plated Thali that will appear in front of you.

Mutton Thali, the only option there is, is very economically priced at Rs. 90, with the choice of either Kheema plate or Mutton plate or Chops plate – any of the plates ordered extra is priced at Rs. 60. The Thali comprises of a red-hot main mutton dish, redder-hotter tambda rasaa (mutton curry), two just-off-the-tawa Jondla chi Bhakri (served one plus one), sliced onion and tomato laced with curd, lemon quarters & salt, and plain rice. That's it. That's all of it. No Pickle, or Chutney, or Curds. No frills. No shu-sha. Just hardcore marathi mutton na cha jevvan. The food is – and I kid you not – is fit for the Gods. The first morsel itself hit me in the right spot.
The constant sounds of thup-thup-thup-thup of garam-garam bhakri being flattened by the sari-clad ladies in the kitchen, and the crowd's collective hizz-hizzing from enjoying spicy mutton is the only sound heard.
It feels you are home. Other restaurants who boast of “serving home food away from home” can definitely learn a lot from this Hot, Spicy, Aromatic Heaven.
The tastes and the fragrance go bang! directly to your head, like being hit by a cricket stump.

But the real “Home” feeling comes while and after having the well made succulent mutton. Reason being, the Chili-Spice blend used, and the way it is cooked, successfully fulfills the most difficult criteria the chefs world over strive to achieve: It is said that “Anyone can prepare Hot Spicy food, preparing it is no big work, however, the art lies in ensuring that while your audience is consuming the hot preparation he/she should not have a runny nose, or teary eyes, instead should start sweating only near the end of the meal. This can be perfectly achieved while dinning at Chougle's Manisha Mess. Your nose doesn't run, nor your eyes water while your taste buds are having a time of their life. Another acid test that certifies 100% home-made (again, a feat tried to attain by the best of chefs) is that fact that you will not get any heart-burns after you have left the premises – this is not as easy as it sounds. When was the last time you had a very heavy & spicy meal and not worried about acidity. The reason behind Chougle's Manisha Mess achieving this fine balance is because they, themselves, prepare the chilli-spice mixture. If you are lucky you may get a gimps of Chillis or other Spices been laid out for drying on the adjacent terrace, open to hot sun.

The crowd frequenting Chougle's Manisha Mess is mainly working class Gents; however, women can be seen once in a while. Ladies, if you want to go there yourself, I suggest you gang up with your other lady friends or family members, and form a group of 10 to 15 (15 is maximum capacity of the restaurant itself) and book your visit in advance (Afternoon recommended. Ideal time 1:30 – 2:00 pm. Contact number: 0-9844284105).
Parcel service is also available but No Plastic business – you have to take your own Tiffin Box!

The food service is fairly quick, provided you get the place :) Most customers are regulars so they know all the names. “Bhushan, we are three of us. Adjust kar na yaar, lovekar.” A edger customer could be heard every 15 minutes. “Ho! Ho! Kartoye. I am trying. Trying. 15 minutes waiting maar.” Bhushan shoots back with a smile.

Every restaurant is known mainly for its food; its at the heart of it all. Other aspects like decor, service, entertainment etc. become secondary if its core is lip-smacking. And it is at Chougle's Manisha Mess. Experience you will have there is little bit like our Belgaum: simple, elegant, and stays with you.

Rating: Laivit!

Legend:
Laivit        : *****
LaiiBhaari : ****
Chaal-tai   : ***
Hu Ba       : **
Ti Cha      : *

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